Such
laws applied to various items such as entertainment, food,
beverages, jewelry and clothing. These Laws were used to
control behaviour and ensure that a specific class structure
was maintained in the
Roman Republic
and the
Roman
Empire.
Clothes, Fashion and the Roman Sumptuary Laws
The Roman Sumptuary Laws
ensured that the clothes that the Romans wore provided
information about the status of the person wearing them.
This was not just dictated by the wealth of the person, it
also reflected their social standing. For instance, only
Roman citizens were allowed to wear the Toga.
Roman Sumptuary Laws -
Sumtuariae Leges
Sumtuariae Leges was the name of the various
Roman Laws which
were passed to prevent inordinate expense (sumtus) in
banquets, dress, etc. It was considered the duty of
the
Roman
Government to put a check upon extravagance in the
private expenses of persons. Traces of these laws date back
to the earliest days of the Roman Republic and the laws of
the
Twelve
Tables. The Greeks first enforced these laws followed by
the Romans.
Roman Sumptuary Laws -
Clothes and Status
The clothing materials and
choice of colour was in part, dependant upon status and
wealth, but in the main by the Roman Sumptuary Laws. Public
display of status was a very important feature of Roman
society. The Romans required that their status and rank was
immediately recognized, in order to be meaningful. The
clothing of wealthy and upper class Roman males made their
rank immediately visible in terms of the materials used, the
style of clothing and the color of their clothing. The color
and width of the bands, or stripes of color, on tunics were
called the clavus. The clavus, together with its style and
color, were instantly recognisable as an indication of
office or rank.
Roman Sumptuary Laws
In c213BC a Roman Sumptuary
Law was enacted that stated that no woman should have above
half an ounce of gold, nor wear a dress of different
colours, nor ride in a carriage in the city or in any town,
or within a mile of it, unless on account of public
sacrifices. This particular Roman Sumptuary law was repealed
some twenty years later. Some of the main Roman Sumptuary Laws
in relation to clothing were as follows:
-
Roman Sumptuary Laws stipulated the following:
-
Only the Emperor was allowed to wear the 'trabea'
which was a toga entirely colored in purple
-
Statues of gods were also dressed in the
purple toga
-
Only the augurs were allowed to wear a
saffron toga
-
Only Consuls on public festivals and Equites
during a transvectio (parade) were allowed to wear a white with
a purple band or stripe
-
Members of the Senate and their sons were
also allowed the privilege of the latus clavus, the broad
purple stripe on the tunic
-
Only Roman citizens
were permitted to wear the toga but
ordinary male
citizens were allowed to wear the toga virilis only upon
reaching the age of political majority (17)
-
The number of stripes on the tunic (clavus) were regulated
according to social rank
-
Young men, until they
were seventeen years of age were allowed to wear a toga bordered
with purple, called the toga praetexta. Magistrates
during official ceremonies were also permitted to wear this toga
-
The toga picta or toga palmata, which was a
toga with a gold border, was permitted to be worn by generals in
their triumphs
-
Only Roman matrons
(married women) were allowed to wear a stola
-
Prostitutes and women
condemned for adultery, were not permitted to wear the stola
and therefore called togatae
-
Emperor Honorius (d. 423) issued a decree prohibiting men from
wearing "barbarian" trousers in Rome
-
Emperor Augustus
enforced the public wearing of the toga by males in the center
of Rome and forbade wearers of dark-colored garments (i.e. NOT
the toga) to sit in the media cavea of the theater
|